How to Remove Wallpaper the Right Way — 2025
Three proven methods for removing any type of wallpaper — dry stripping, fabric softener solution, and steamer — plus how to repair and prep walls after removal so they are ready to paint.
Removing wallpaper is one of those home improvement projects that sounds simple but can range from a satisfying two-hour job to a frustrating multi-day ordeal — depending entirely on the type of wallpaper, how it was hung, and what surface it was hung on. The good news is that with the right method and technique, even the most stubborn wallpaper comes off. This guide walks you through diagnosing your wallpaper type, choosing the best removal method, and properly repairing the wall afterward so it is perfectly ready to paint.
Step 1 — Identify Your Wallpaper Type
The type of wallpaper determines which removal method will work best and how long the project will take. Test a small inconspicuous area before committing to a method for the whole room:
🔍 Wallpaper Type Detector
Peel up a small corner of wallpaper in an inconspicuous area and select what you observe:
Step 2 — Prepare the Room Before You Start
Wallpaper removal is a messy, wet process. Proper preparation prevents water damage to floors, electrical outlets, and furniture — and makes cleanup much faster:
Clear and Cover Everything
Remove all furniture from the room or push it to the center and cover it completely with plastic sheeting. Take down all wall hangings, outlet covers, and switch plates. Tape plastic sheeting over all electrical outlets and switches to protect them from water — water and electricity together are a serious hazard during wallpaper removal.
Protect the Floor
Lay heavy plastic sheeting or old canvas drop cloths across the entire floor and secure the edges with painter’s tape. Wallpaper removal generates significant amounts of water — especially when using a steamer or fabric softener solution. Wet wallpaper strips also drop constantly and can stain carpet or damage hardwood if left lying there. Tape the drop cloth to the baseboard so wet strips land on the cloth and not the floor.
Turn Off Electricity in the Room
Turn off the circuit breaker that controls the outlets in the room you are working in. Wallpaper removal involves significant amounts of water — spraying solution, steaming, and wet sponging. If any water contacts an unprotected outlet or switch, it creates a shock hazard. Even with taped covers, turning off the breaker is the safest approach for any wet wall work.
Score the Wallpaper Surface
Before applying any removal solution, use a wallpaper scoring tool — a small device with rotating wheels covered in tiny spikes — rolled across the entire wall surface. Scoring creates thousands of tiny perforations in the wallpaper surface that allow removal solution or steam to penetrate through to the adhesive layer underneath. Without scoring, solution sits on top of vinyl-coated wallpaper and never reaches the glue. Scoring tools cost $8 to $15 and make every subsequent step dramatically more effective.
Step 3 — Choose Your Removal Method
Select the method that matches your wallpaper type and the tools you have available. You can always start with the easiest method and escalate if it is not working:
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1
Start at a seam or corner where two strips of wallpaper meet and use a putty knife to lift a small tab of the wallpaper edge off the wall
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2
Grip the tab firmly with both hands and pull slowly and steadily at a very low angle — almost parallel to the wall surface, not pulling straight outward
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3
Maintain slow, steady tension rather than jerking or pulling quickly — a slow consistent pull peels larger pieces than fast jerking movements
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4
Work in sections no wider than about 18 inches — trying to strip too wide a section at once causes the paper to tear more frequently
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5
If the top decorative layer peels off but a paper backing remains, switch to Method 2 — the backing requires wetting to release from the adhesive
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Collect all stripped wallpaper immediately and bag it — wet wallpaper left on the floor is a slipping hazard
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1
Mix your removal solution: either dilute DIF concentrate per package instructions, or mix 1 cap of liquid fabric softener with 1 quart of hot water in a spray bottle or garden sprayer
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2
Score the entire wall section with your scoring tool to create perforations that allow the solution to penetrate through vinyl coatings to the adhesive
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3
Spray the solution generously onto a 4 by 4 foot section of wall — saturate it thoroughly so the solution soaks through the scoring holes to the adhesive layer
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4
Wait 5 to 10 minutes for the solution to penetrate and soften the adhesive — do not rush this step, the waiting is what makes the next step easy
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5
Use a wide plastic scraper or 6-inch drywall knife to lift the wallpaper edge and peel strips off the wall — they should come off in satisfying large pieces
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Re-spray any area that starts to dry out or resist removal — keep the surface wet throughout the process
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7
Wipe the wall with a damp sponge after removal to wash off all adhesive residue — this step is critical before priming or painting
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1
Rent a wallpaper steamer from Home Depot, Lowe’s, or a local equipment rental company — book it in advance as they are in high demand on weekends
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Fill the steamer with water per the manufacturer instructions and allow it to heat up to full steam production — typically 10 to 15 minutes
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3
Hold the steam plate flat against the wallpaper surface for 30 to 60 seconds per section — you will feel the wallpaper begin to loosen and bubble under the steam plate
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4
Immediately use a wide scraper to lift and peel the softened section while it is still hot and pliable — steam-softened wallpaper hardens quickly as it cools
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Work in a two-person team if possible — one person steams while the other scrapes the previous section — this keeps the workflow continuous and efficient
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Keep the steamer plate moving — holding it in one spot too long can damage drywall by over-saturating the paper facing of the drywall board
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7
Wipe all steamed wall surfaces with a damp sponge after removal to remove adhesive residue, then allow walls to dry completely for 24 to 48 hours before priming
Step 4 — Repair the Walls After Removal
After wallpaper removal, walls almost always need significant repair before they can be painted. This step is critical — paint applied directly over damaged drywall or leftover adhesive will look terrible and may peel. Budget at least a full day for wall repair and drying time:
🔧 Common Wall Problems After Removal
- Torn drywall paper facing — very common with older wallpaper
- Adhesive residue leaving sticky or shiny patches on the wall
- Small gouges and dings from the scraper during removal
- Seam ridges where wallpaper edges overlapped
- Bubbling or soft spots if drywall absorbed too much water
- Old nail holes and dents that were hidden under wallpaper
✅ How to Fix Each Problem
- Torn drywall facing — skim coat with joint compound, sand smooth when dry
- Adhesive residue — wash with TSP solution or DIF cleaner, rinse thoroughly
- Gouges and dings — fill with lightweight joint compound, sand flush
- Seam ridges — feather joint compound over ridges, sand with 120-grit
- Soft or bubbling drywall — allow to dry completely before any repair
- Nail holes — fill with spackle, sand smooth with 220-grit sandpaper
Always prime walls with oil-based primer before painting after wallpaper removal. Latex paint applied directly to repaired walls after wallpaper removal will cause any remaining adhesive residue to activate and bubble the paint surface. Oil-based primer — or a shellac-based primer like Zinsser BIN — seals the wall completely and prevents this problem. This extra step saves you from having to repaint the entire room.
Tools, Materials, and Costs
| Item | Cost | Essential? | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wallpaper scoring tool | $8 – $15 | Yes | Zinsser Paper Tiger or Hyde Tools are reliable brands |
| Wide plastic scraper — 6 inch | $6 – $12 | Yes | Plastic scratches walls less than metal during scraping |
| Spray bottle or garden sprayer | $5 – $15 | Yes | Garden sprayer covers large areas much faster than spray bottle |
| DIF wallpaper remover concentrate | $10 – $15 | Optional | Or substitute fabric softener mixed with hot water |
| Wallpaper steamer rental | $30 – $50/day | Optional | Only needed for old or very stubborn wallpaper |
| Joint compound — lightweight | $10 – $18 | Yes | For wall repairs after removal — buy the pre-mixed version |
| Sandpaper — 120 and 220-grit | $6 – $10 | Yes | 120-grit for joint compound, 220-grit for final smoothing |
| Oil-based or shellac primer | $20 – $35/quart | Yes | Zinsser BIN or Cover Stain — do not skip this step |
| Plastic sheeting — 6 mil | $10 – $20 | Yes | For floor and furniture protection — heavy duty only |
| TSP cleaner | $8 – $12 | Optional | For washing adhesive residue off walls before priming |
Test the dye transfer before committing. Before removing wallpaper from an entire room, test one small section completely — remove, repair, prime, and paint a 2 by 2 foot area. This tells you exactly how the walls will behave and what repair level is needed before you commit to the full room.
Homes built before 1978 may have wallpaper hung with lead-based adhesive. If your home was built before 1978 and you are unsure about the age of the wallpaper, purchase a lead paint test kit ($10 at hardware stores) and test the adhesive before removing. Disturbing lead adhesive without proper precautions creates a serious health hazard — especially for children.